Sherry, a fortified wine that hails from the sun-drenched region of Andalusia in southern Spain, is more than just a drink—it's a cultural experience. Deeply woven into the fabric of Andalusian life, sherry’s rich history, diverse styles, and unique production process give it a unique position in the world of wines. For years fellow Sommeliers and wine industry folk have been telling me that Sherry is about to make a comeback. It still hasn't happened and I don't think it will but if you're visiting Seville, taking the time to explore sherry is a must. I'm not a Sherry drinker but tasting it in Seville exceeded all my expectations, I've even got a bottle of Palo Cortado in the fridge.
What is Sherry?
Sherry is a fortified wine, meaning that it has had grape spirit (usually brandy) added to it during or after fermentation. This boosts the alcohol content and influences the flavor. But what truly sets sherry apart is its aging process, which takes place in the unique climate of the Jerez region, situated between the cities of Jerez de la Frontera, Sanlúcar de Barrameda, and El Puerto de Santa María. This region, known as the "Sherry Triangle," is where the magic happens.
The Styles of Sherry
Sherry comes in a variety of styles, each with its own character, from dry and crisp to rich and sweet. Here’s a breakdown:
Fino:
Taste: Light, dry, and crisp, with flavors of almonds and a hint of salty tang.
Aging: Aged under a layer of yeast called "flor," which protects it from oxygen, giving it a pale color and delicate flavor.
Best enjoyed: Chilled, often with tapas like olives, Iberian ham, or seafood.
Manzanilla:
Taste: Similar to Fino but with a slightly more pronounced salty, coastal note.
Origin: Exclusively produced in Sanlúcar de Barrameda, where the coastal air influences its flavor.
Best enjoyed: With seafood, particularly prawns or anchovies.
Amontillado:
Taste: Starts as a Fino, but after the flor dies, it’s exposed to oxygen, giving it a nuttier, richer flavor with a hint of dried fruits.
Aging: Both under flor and then oxidatively, resulting in a golden to amber color.
Best enjoyed: With cured meats, aged cheeses, or earthy dishes like mushrooms.
Oloroso:
Taste: Rich, full-bodied, and dry, with deep flavors of nuts, figs, and toffee.
Aging: Aged oxidatively without flor, which gives it a dark color and intense flavor.
Best enjoyed: With robust dishes like stews, or simply as a sipping wine.
Palo Cortado:
Taste: A rare and complex sherry that combines the finesse of Amontillado with the richness of Oloroso.
Aging: Starts as Fino or Amontillado, but spontaneously takes on characteristics of Oloroso.
Best enjoyed: With gourmet foods like foie gras or high-quality charcuterie.
Pedro Ximénez (PX):
Taste: Incredibly sweet, with flavors of raisins, molasses, and chocolate.
Aging: Made from sun-dried Pedro Ximénez grapes, which concentrate the sugars.
Best enjoyed: As a dessert wine, drizzled over vanilla ice cream, or paired with rich chocolate desserts.
The History of Sherry
Sherry’s history is ancient, dating back over 3,000 years to the Phoenicians who first introduced winemaking to the region. The wine was later perfected by the Moors, who brought advanced techniques during their rule of Spain. The name "sherry" itself is derived from the town of Jerez, originally called "Sherish" by the Moors.
During the Age of Exploration, sherry became a favorite of explorers and was even carried on Christopher Columbus’s voyages. The British played a significant role in sherry’s history too, particularly after the 1587 raid on Cadiz by Sir Francis Drake, who seized thousands of barrels of the wine. Sherry quickly became popular in England and remains so to this day.
Why Sherry is Important to Andalusian Culture
Sherry is more than just a drink in Andalusia—it's a way of life. The wine is deeply embedded in the region’s traditions, from the famous sherry bodegas (wine cellars) to the lively social rituals of drinking sherry at flamenco shows or during tapas outings. Festivals, such as the Feria de Abril in Seville, feature sherry prominently, with locals sipping Fino or Manzanilla while dancing Sevillanas.
Sherry also plays a vital role in the local economy, supporting jobs in viticulture, production, and tourism. The vineyards of the Sherry Triangle are a source of pride, and the wine’s unique aging process in the region's climate cannot be replicated anywhere else.
We found is fascinating to see businessmen standing around a large barrel outside a Bodega sipping glasses of sherry with their tapas lunch before heading back to the office.
Where to Try Sherry in Seville
Seville is an ideal place to immerse yourself in the world of sherry. Here are a few top spots to taste and enjoy sherry in the city:
El Rinconcillo: Established in 1670, this is the oldest bar in Seville and a must-visit for sherry lovers. The atmosphere is quintessentially Andalusian, and their sherry selection is impressive. Pair a glass of Fino with their delicious tapas.
La Carbonería: This hidden gem is not only a great place for sherry but also for experiencing live flamenco. Enjoy a glass of Amontillado while soaking in the passionate performances.
Taberna Álvaro Peregil: A small, family-run bar known for its homemade orange wine and great selection of sherries. The vibe is authentic, and it's a favorite among locals.
Casa Morales: Another historic bar with a fantastic sherry list. The large wine barrels lining the walls give it a unique charm. Try an Oloroso here alongside a plate of jamón.
Vinería San Telmo: For a modern twist, head to this wine bar that offers a variety of sherries by the glass. Their knowledgeable staff can guide you through a tasting, pairing each sherry with creative dishes.
Taberna Manolo Cateca: Surprisingly hard to find back street Taberna in a very central location with 200 sherries by the glass. Service is brisk and in Spanish only. Just opens 11-5 Monday to Saturday.
Final Sip
Sherry is a wine that tells the story of Andalusia—its history, culture, and traditions. Whether you’re a seasoned wine lover or just curious, exploring the different styles of sherry in Seville is a journey worth taking. So next time you find yourself in this beautiful city, raise a glass and toast to the rich legacy of sherry, Andalusia’s liquid gold.
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